The Trim: A New Years Resolution in August?

Among my mommy friends we seem to back and forth about whether it is necessary to trim our little girls' hair. I decided to do so (this is the second time ever) for the reason below.

We've all read articles about the connection between length retention and the health of the ends of our hair. While I am not obsessed with hair length, I do think there is definitely truth to that argument. The logic goes that often times we say that our hair just doesn't grow (past a certain length). Truthfully, the hair is indeed growing.  However, in many cases the ends of the hair (which have been around the longest) may be damaged and excessively dry which can cause breakage (at the ends) at a faster or same rate as hair growth from the root. I know for a fact, that with our busy schedule sometimes I'll look up and nearly a week has passed and I've not given the the ends of my girls hair the attention and maintenance needed (i.e. moisturizing the ends). In addition to a trim, which was less than 1/2 inch, the girls got a deep oil treatment/conditioning per-wash for Sasou and post-wash for Joelle, which incorporated Shea Moisture Deep Conditioning Masque plus castor and olive oils for good measure - all under a heat cap!   

I also think that excessive use of barrettes and rubber bands to hold beads can also damage and weaken tender ends.  That said, over the past few months between swimming and travel back to the United States, I've totally slacked (bad mommy) and felt the need for a trim to begin with a healthier "slate" of hair as we begin the school year in a few weeks. Along the same line of thinking, as soon as we get through the swimming season, I am planning to change up our hair routine a bit to include more double strand twists for Lady Grace in particular and fewer rubber bands and barrettes and more "protective" styles in general. While I wasn't exactly sure where I was going with this post, it appears to be a New Years Hair Resolution in August!

Getting a Hair Trim

"Is Hair Care Oppressing My Black Daughter?"

I recently came across an interesting article on the Root, “Is Hair Care Oppressing My Black Daughter?”  The person posing the question is a (white) stepmother, who is caring for her husband’s (black) daughter from a previous relationship.  The stepmother also has a biological (white) daughter from a previous relationship, of the same age, who does not have a hair care regime – i.e. she can “get up and go” or "wash and go" in the morning, whereas the (black) stepdaughter doesn't do so - instead she gets her hair "fixed".  The stepmother is questioning whether a negative message is being sent to her (black) stepdaughter, who needs to get her hair “fixed” either daily or worn in braids.

Personally, I agree with most of the points made by the author, in response to the stepmother's question. While I believe that the stepmom is sincere, I think the question speaks to the issue of what is “normal”.  What may be “un-normal” hair regime practices for one culture, may be perfectly “normal” for another culture.    Personally, I find washing, conditioning (sometimes with a heat cap), moisturizing and styling my girls’ hair on a weekly or biweekly basis perfectly “normal” within my cultural context.  Additionally, a lot of sharing and bonding takes place during the time that I spend on keeping my girls’ hair healthy and happy.  We take pride in getting our hair "fixed" whether we are braiding, twisting or rocking afro-puffs!  Upon finishing each hairstyle (usually braids or twists), my girls love to look in the mirror to see how they got their hair “fixed”.  Finally, hair textures are all different (even among blacks) and require various levels of attention and care to maintain health.  Black hair may be on the more demanding side of the care scale, and I am OK with that – we work with what we are given!  I hope the stepmom can learn to be OK with that too.  

Photo: Generic Image (Thinkstock)
From The Root

The Politics of Brown Dolls & Self-Image

So I was recently thinking about the politics of self-image and dolls as pertains to the purchases that I make for my children.  For purposes of full disclosure, I should say that we are an African American family living in France.  We have lived in countries, both in Asia and Europe, our kids speak fluent French and we enjoy an ethnically diverse group of friends.  Our children are well accustomed to people of different cultures and backgrounds. We actively teach them the importance of embracing and being proud of one's (African American) heritage, while also stressing the importance of respecting and valuing the cultural backgrounds of others.  We teach them this life lesson not only by explicitly stating as much, but living our lives as examples, as well.

I digress.  So, back to the part about embracing African American heritage, I generally purchase brown dolls in an effort to ensure that my girls have a positive self-image.  I know that they are interested in Tinkerbell and her fairy friends and blond-haired Barbies with high heels, as well as Snow White and her friend Cinderella.  In fact, I was stunned when one of my girls told me she wanted yellow (blond), long hair but no braids!  While explaining that there is nothing wrong with blond hair, I felt it was important for me to communicate the beauty of being a little brown girl with cornrows, twists, and plaits by reading books like: "Happy to be Nappy" and "I Love My Hair!".   That said, for the near term, I plan to continue to "gently" encourage my girls to embrace dolls like: American Girl's Ady and dark-skinned "bitty twins", the numerous variations of Princess Tiana, and Target brand baby dolls.  Much to my delight I recently found that the Lalaloopsy line comes with some brown varieties as well, with one doll called Dot Starlight!  I love how my girls delight in playing with Doc McStuffins!  How awesome is she!  A little six-year old "doctor" who treats her stuffed animals.  I hope there will continue to be a proliferation of dolls of all ethnic backgrounds and skin hues and that my girls will internalize a positive self-image and be able to embrace not only little brown dolls, but others, as well.  

Welcome your thoughts!

Two of Our Favorite Dolls - Doc McStuffins & Tiana

Mommy Hair: My Parisian Hairstyle!

Since it had been far too long since my last trim/haircut (just before we moved to France last August), I decided that it was time to find a salon and stylist. After a bit of research, I decided on Polished Hair Care on the Champs Élysées. The salon is owned by an African American woman resident in Paris. I thoroughly enjoyed my experience despite having a sinus headache. I will definitely be back for my "quarterly" trims. Although I generally enjoy braiding the girls' hair, I on the other hand don't particularly enjoy getting my hair done! Ever since I grew out my relaxer four years ago, I rarely make it to a salon. But this time around, my hair definitely needed some TLC!  Here are a couple of photos of my trim and flat iron:

My Parisian Haircut - Pic #1

My Parisian Haircut - Pic #2

Deep Conditioning Heat Wrap for the Girls!

As part of my ongoing effort to nourish and hydrate my girls' hair, I decided to purchase a "Hair Therapy Wrap", several weeks ago. I have used it twice on the girls' hair and have noticed an appreciable difference in the ability of the hair to retain moisture. Additionally, the hair just seems "happy". What I like the most about the heat cap is the ease of use. Just pop the cap with the gel inserts in place in the microwave for a minute or so and voila! With this heat cap there are no wires so the girls are free to roam about during the 20 minute treatment. At the moment my conditioning treatment includes Shea Moisture's Deep Conditioning Masque combined with a bit of olive oil and my homemade mixture. My mom says I'm trying to be like Madame CJ Walker since I've started creating my own "potions" to meet the girls' hair needs. LOL! After applying the deep conditioning mix, I place a plastic cap over the hair, followed by the just microwave-heated Hair Therapy Wrap. it's a tad big for a child's head, but it works for us!



Lady Grace Wearing the Hair Therapy Wrap

Product Packaging

This Week: Protective Braided Styles

This week I decided to give the girls a "protective" style along the hairline to protect those sensitive edges.  I'm always trying to vary their hair styles to reduce tension on any one point, particulary the front hairline.  Both styles turned our very different, but I am satisfied with both.  Better yet, these styles required less than one hour to complete!

Sasou's Circular Protective Cornrow

 

Lady Grace's Protective Braided "Headband"

 

 

 

Share With Us: What's Your "Work-Out" Hair Do?

Before moving to France last year, you would find me in the gym at least 4 times a week. Spin and zumba classes were my favorite, but I would also do light strength building and occasionally swim and participate in a boot camp class. There is not really a "gym culture" here in France (let alone a "kids club" located withn the gym where children can play surpervised while parents work out).  came across an article today on a study pertaining to Black women avoiding exercise in order to maintain hairstyles. The article states that a third of women in the study indicated lower levels of exercise due to their hair.
Before moving to France last year, you would find me in the gym four times a week.  Spin and Zumba  classes were my favorite, however I would also do light strength training, yoga, and occasionally swim or participate in boot camp classes.  I have found that there is not really a gym culture here in France the way there is in the United States - there are not many around and the ones that do exist cost over $1200 per year and don't have kiddie care.  That said, I have had to find alternatives.  For the moment, I take Zumba classes in my neighborhood a couple times a week and will start running when the weather warms up.  So what does this all have to do with the title of this post?  Well today I came across an article on a study pertaining to Black women and exercise avoidance in order to maintain hairstyles.  So that got me to wondering what other exercising ladies out there do to their hair when exercising   Below is a photo of my post work out hair (before I got it cut a couple weeks ago). When wearing my hair flat-ironed, I generally make a high and tight ponytail and slide on a mesh or fabric type headband along my hairline. When wearing my hair curly, it's less of an issue because I rebrand my hair before sleeping.  Either way I try not to let my hair compromise my workouts...I'm a much better person to everyone around me when I exercise regularly : ) What is your workout hair do?

High Ponytail With Headband

Overlapped Cornrows

Here is Lady Grace's style for the week. I've never tried overlapping cornrows, but got the idea from another mom on Pinterest. Not too shabby for a first try!

Overlapped Cornrows

Cornrows Originating From a Single Point

I am so proud of myself! I've always wanted to do a braided style like this where all the cornrows originate from a single point. Sasou is loving it and so am I! Better yet, this style required less than an hour (with the help of Dr. McStuffins on the television, of course).

Cornrows Originating From Single Point (back view)

Cornrows With Dangling Twists

Here is Lady Grace's style for the week!  The cornrows are braided up to the crown of the head and then twisted to dangle.  I also reserved a "patch" of hair at the crown of the head which only contains twists to add some volume to the style.  I really like how it turned out and do does she!

Side View

Back View

Geometric Cornrows With Side Ponytail

Sasou insisted on red beads this week, so here is what we came up with!

Geometric Cornrows

My Homemade Shea Butter Coconut Mix

Have you made any homemade mixes?  If so tell us about it!  Since moving to France, while Sasou's hair has thrived, Lady Grace's has started to suffer from severe dryness.  While dryness is beyond common in naturally curly hair, it has been magnified since our arrival and I have decided to take matters into my own hands and go moisture crazy! LOL. But seriously, I have come up with a plan of action that involves a weekly moisturizing regimen and daily maintenance.  While I certainly plan to continue to use commercial products, I have also decided to use some homemade mixes, as well. For starters, I decided to make a Shea Butter Coconut Mix (with bit of Argan and Olive Oils).  Why this combination?  Coconut oil is a carrier oil and is better absorbed into the hair than many other oils.  I used cold pressed, virgin, organic coconut oil.   There is also much written on shea butter  - it has been used for ages on the Continent and is known for its healing, restorative properties - plus it is a great sealant to keep that moisture "locked" in.  Argan and olive oils help with dry scalp and dryness in general.  So there is my logic!  The mixture was quite easy to make, but finding the components around Paris was a bit more involved.  This weekend I plan on using some of this mix for a deep (and hot) conditioning treatment (will probably combine it with a bit of Shea Moisture's Deep Conditioning Masque and a bit of Castor Oil, which is also good for those with moisture challenges).  Wish us luck!

Final Product (in an old Nieva container)

Ingredients (shea butter, coconut oil, argan oil and olive oil)

Single Bow

Here is Lady Grace's style for the week which I call the "single bow"!

Top View

Back View

Showcasing: Hairstyles in Brazil

Português:  Estamos felizes de ter "membros" de todo o mundo e pensei que seria divertido "apresentam" alguns países de tempos em tempos. Vamos começar com o Brasil! Mostre-nos seus penteados lindos para as meninas!  Note:  Espero que esta seja uma boa tradução :)

English:  We are happy to have members from all across the world and thought it would be fun to "feature" certain countries from time-to-time.  Let's start with Brazil!  Show us your pretty hairstyles full of braids and curls for little girls!

Double Strand Twists & Twisted Beaded Cornrows

So after great difficulty in finding "inspiration" for a creative style for Sasou this week, here is a photo of what I came up with this evening...and I like the results! The style is simple, will last for at least a week and is easy to "touch up".  I used a commercial twist and loc gel to maintain the hold until my Carol's Daughter Loc Butter arrives.  It is amazing what good product can do for hair.  Sasou's hair has really grown over the past year and has become more and more healthy.  Go Sasou!  What do you think of this style?

Double Strand Twists & Twisted  Beaded Cornrows

Where do you get your "hairspiration"?

QUESTION:  Ladies, let's talk...where do you get your "hairspiration"?  What inspires how you style your hair or your little girls' hair on a given week?  Let's share ideas, photos, etc...

I almost always find my inspiration visually.  For example, when I saw the second ballerina from the left with double strand twists, I knew that was a style that I wanted to try on Lady Grace (see earlier post) and it turned out to be adorable on her.  As the weekend approaches, I'm searching for this week's inspiration.  We'll be sure to share what I come up with over the weekend and love to see what you come up with, as well!  So tell us...what's your "hairspiration"?

 ~ Janee

"Hairspiration" for Double Strand Twists

What is Your Moisturizing Routine?

Lets share: What products are you currently using as part of your "moisturizing" routine?

I was so happy to come home to my delivery of Shea Moisture products! There has really been an emergence of "commercialized" hair products on the more natural side of the spectrum for African American hair in recent years. I use many of them for different reasons. At the moment, we are using the Shea Moisture line for general maintenance (explanation below), but I do use Miss Jessie's for braids and Carol's Daughter Loc Butter for twists, among others. I've used Shea Moisture in the past and we are currently using it now. We are using Shea Moisture for the moment for two reasons.  One, it is free of sulfates, parabens, mineral oil, propylene glycol, paba, paraffin, phthalates, and synthetic color and fragrance.  Two, since our arrival to France Lady Grace's hair has become super dry.  Perhaps something to do with the water.   Her hair is still in good health by I feel that her ends have suffered a bit. Therefore I've been looking for products that's can give and help her hair retain moisture and nourishment. I'm hoping that Shea Moisture will help do the trick!  I absolutely love these products, especially the shampoo.  I don't deep condition every week since one would run the risk of over conditioning - maybe every few weeks.  But I have been spraying water and applying a bit of curly pudding or several sprays of the reconstructive elixir oil every few days in an effort to keep the hair moisturized, especially the ends.

Shampoo
Shea Moisture's Coconut & Hibiscus OR
Shea Moisture's Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention

Conditioner
Shea Moisture's Yucca & Baobab Volumizing
Shea Moisture's Deep Treatment Masque

Leave In Moisturizer
Shea Moisture's Curl & Styling Milk

Moisturizer for Styling/Braiding
Miss Jessie's Curly Pudding
Shea Moisture's Shea Butter Reconstructive Elixir
Note: I used to use mineral and petrolatum based products but everything I've read suggests that those types of product aren't necessarily good for our hair...but that can be the subject of another entry.

Shea Moisture Products That We are Currently Using

Braided French Roll to the Side

This week Sasou will be wearing a braided "French Roll to the Side".  I recently learned that when doing styles that require a bit more geometric precision, for me at least, it is soooo much easier to part and section the hair before beginning.  It also forces me to clearly think out the desired look.  Sasou's hair has come a really long way over the past year.  Her hair is now extremely healthy and responds to most product quite well.  I usually do her hair on Friday night and it can last up to 10 days if necessary and still look pretty good - she has great texture for cornrowed styles.

Finished Product - Side View with
Braided Bangs

Sectioning the Hair

Old-School Box Braids

This is a style that I sometimes wore as a little girl. I like this style for it's simplicity.  Additionally, it is a bit different than the cornrows that Lady Grace typically wears, so I feel like it  gives the "stress points" a chance to relax.  What I don't like about this style is that because the boxes are fairly large, the style tends to get "fuzzy" much faster.  That said, the larger sections are conducive to "touching up" fairly quickly during the week.  I'm thinking that there may be a way that I can pin the braids to give a different look as the week progresses...we'll see.  I'll post again if I come up with something creative!

Finished Product - Demonstrating the concept of
"shrinkage" to my husband

Finished Product
Front View

To achieve this look I made all of my
 parts and sections before beginning

Two-Strand Twists & Diagonal Cornrows

After a day of running errands, it was Lady Grace's turn to get her hair fixed!  After a washing and deep conditioning, I decided on a double strand twist style. I used Miss Jessie's Curly Pudding for each twist and finished the style off with a few spritzes of Shea Moisture's Reconstructive Elixir Spray on the scalp. I'd actually intended to give her double strand twists throughout.  However, as I reached the top (and dinner time approached), Lady Grace became a bit irritable and unwilling to continue sitting.  So, I decided to create diagonal cornrows from the crown of her head to her forehead so that I could finish up faster.  To create this style, I sectioned and clipped the wet hair into six sections, and twisted the hair section-by-section.  If a section became a bit dry, a few spritzes of water "revitalized" the hair to it's twist-ready state.  Also, I took care to run the Curly Pudding down the hair shaft from root to end, ensuring even application and twisting all the way to the ends.  I like the results!  What I love about two-strand twists is the style diversity.  For example, the twists can just hang naturally or can be manipulated into ponytails or even held back with a headband or clips.  I am trying a new method of maintaining the twists at night (to avoid the fuzzies), and if successful will post the process.

Two-Strand Twists With Diagonal Front Cornrows

The Double Twisted Tuck With Dangling Cornrows

So I decided to get a head start on the weekend hair routine for the girls by doing Sasou's Friday night.  My inspiration for this style actually came from the Facebook page of Girls Love Your Curls.  I've been using Miss Jessie's Baby Buttercreme on Sasou's hair lately, which seems to respond well the product.  I didn't wash her hair this week so I used the Baby Buttercreme liberally on each section to be braided not only to moisturize, but to produce smoother looking cornrows.  After braiding, I finish off the style with Shea Moisture's Raw Shea Butter Reconstructive Elixer.  I'll post another time about why I absolutely love this product for all of my childrens' hair.

Double Twisted Tuck With Dangling Cornrows

The Next Morning's "Braid Out"

Here is the result of a few cornrows and use of Kinky Curly the night before. After gently undoing my three cornrows, I gently fluffed the hair with my fingers, allowing the hair to naturally fall into place. Usually at this point I rub a bit of Kinky Curly's Gloss Pomade for a bit of shine. Unfortunately, I couldn't find it...guessing one of the kids got into it!  To achieve this look, click here. Sorry about the picture clarity...no one in my home was overly excited about taking pics of my hair this morning!

Back View

Close Up #2

Close Up #1

Version Française: Voici le résultat des tresses et l'utilisation de Kinky Curly la nuit prècèdente. Après avoir détresser les tresses, les cheveux se mettent naturellement en place. D'habitude, je utilise un peu de Gloss Pomade de Kinky Curly pour rendre les cheveux plus brillant. Pour obtenir ce "look", cliquez ici. Désolé pour la clarité des photos...

"Curl it Up" With Kinky Curly's Curling Custard

While I generally blow dry and flat iron my hair after washing, at the end of my hair cycle I sometimes "curl it up" with Kinky Curly's Original Curling Custard. Unlike the directions on the Kinky Curly youtube video, I use the product on dry hair (a week old) to achieve my desired curly/wavy style. While I generally "rebraid" the hair each night while wearing this style, it can last about three days before it's time to move on.  Click here for photos of the final product! As a disclaimer, I should mention that I do not have a relaxer, so I'm not exactly sure how the product would behave on relaxed hair.

Step 1: Divide and Section the Hair.  Starting with dry hair, divide the hair depending on the whether you want more of a curl (4-5 sections) or a wave pattern (3 sections). Tip: It is not necessary to part the hair with a comb.  I find that well defined parts with a comb make it more difficult for the hair to "hang" naturally the following day.  This time around, I wanted more of a wavy look so I only worked with 3 sections.

Step 2: Apply Product. Apply a small amount of product to the section that you are working.  I probably use 1/3 teaspoon for each section of hair. Tip: You can use a fine-toothed comb to ensure there is even application and to prepare for step 3.  Don't apply too much - a little of this product goes a LONG way!  If you add too much the hair can be stiff.  If you use just a bit on dry hair and follow these instructions you will have bouncy curls or waves.

Step 3:  Cornrow Each Section.  After applying the product, immediately cornrow the section.  I use little black rubber bands to secure the ends.  You can also use little roller rods (those hurt my head).

Step 4:  Spray Hair.  Using a spray bottle give your cornrows several sprays.  The hair is meant to be "gently" moist not sopping wet.  I find that using a little water helps with the curl/wave pattern when starting with dry hair.

Step 5:  Silk Scarf.  Tie your hair with a silk scarf and go to bed!  In the morning all you will have to do is take down your cornrows, fluff and go!

Dry Hair

Sectioned Hair

Hair in Cornrows
(after product is applied)

Curling Custard

The "Old-Fashioned" Bow

Most little girls love to have pretty bows, barrettes and headbands in their hair. My girls are no exception! As you will see in the photo gallery, I will occasionally use beads but not too often for fear of hair breakage caused by the rubber bands used to secure the beads. However, I am trying to teach my girls that in more cases than not "less is more" - i.e. it is not necessary to light up your head like a Christmas tree, as one of my aunts likes to say. LOL. Beauty also exists in simplicity. That said, I love the simple beauty of the old fashioned ribbon. I found the perfect ribbon box at Michael's Arts & Crafts some time ago that is just large enough to accommodate our primary color schemes.

Silk Scarves & Satin Bonnets! (Les Foulards & Bonnets)

While I am by no means a hair expert, I do believe in protecting hair at night.  I remember when my youngest, aka "Lady Grace" was a baby how I would find her little curls woven into the cotton-based crib sheets every morning.  At that time, I found silk crib sheets to resolve the problem.  Since then, and when the girls will tolerate it, I tie up their hair with a silk scarf or at the very least a satin bonnet.  When neither is permitted, I lay a super-sized silk scarf over their pillows as a compromise!  In addition to protecting the hair, silk/satin covering certainly makes for longer lasting hair styles.

Je ne suis pas expert de cheveux, mais je crois que la protection des cheveux est tres importante.  Je me souviens que quand mon plus jeune, était un bébé, je trouvais ses petites boucles tissées dans les draps de son lit tous les matins. Heuresement, j'ai trouvé les draps de son lit en soie pour résoudre le problème. Depuis ce temps, et quand les filles se tolérer, je utilize un foulard en soie ou un bonnet de satin. Si non, je mets un grand foulard en soie de très grande taille sur leurs oreillers en guise de compromis! En plus de la protection des cheveux, un foulard rend les styles de cheveux plus durables, sans doubt.